I can't believe I haven't seen a Bollywood film up until now. It's probably about twice as entertaining as the British cinema experience because you get to shout if your entertained enough. Massive cheers and whistling happened all through the film, including big ones for the motorbike chase scene and the choice of loyalty towards husband (very popular).
The biggest cheer must have been for the first appearance of Shah Rukh Kahn. He's pretty much the biggest Bollywood act around, is about 40 and has been in most big Bollywood films since the 1990's. He's massive. He was recently included in Newsweek's 50 most powerful people in the world.
Tuesday 23 December 2008
Shimla
I absolutely loved Shimla. It was CLEAN. But apart from that it was really charming. And people came up and talked to you, except they just wanted to talk. It was a really nice break from all the normal hecticness.
A funny thing was that there was Tudor housing, in India, and Scottish architecture, in India. Quite odd. The vice regal lodge, where Ghandi signed the Treaty of Independence, was a bit like having a tour of Glamis Castle. This part of the world is kind of Scottish. Shimla was right next to a place called "The Glen," I'm sitting in a place called McLeod Ganj and just down the road is Dalhousie.
We went to a roller disco in Shimla. Not since the 70's could roller skates look cool. The regulars were taking chairs from the cafe and jumping over them. They also had no women to dance with so they were figure skating with each other which was odd.
Before that we had been up a hill to a monkey temple, with violent monkeys which I had to fend off with a lonely planet guide. But listen to this. They had developed the habit of stealing people's glasses and then bribing the cafe owners to give them back in exchange for food.
A funny thing was that there was Tudor housing, in India, and Scottish architecture, in India. Quite odd. The vice regal lodge, where Ghandi signed the Treaty of Independence, was a bit like having a tour of Glamis Castle. This part of the world is kind of Scottish. Shimla was right next to a place called "The Glen," I'm sitting in a place called McLeod Ganj and just down the road is Dalhousie.
We went to a roller disco in Shimla. Not since the 70's could roller skates look cool. The regulars were taking chairs from the cafe and jumping over them. They also had no women to dance with so they were figure skating with each other which was odd.
Before that we had been up a hill to a monkey temple, with violent monkeys which I had to fend off with a lonely planet guide. But listen to this. They had developed the habit of stealing people's glasses and then bribing the cafe owners to give them back in exchange for food.
Sunday 21 December 2008
Goodbye Time
I can't pretend it wasn't sad to say goodbye to everyone. First goodbye was a couple of monks who had to leave the day before I was going. That's when I realised, I didn't really want to leave. It wasn't really something I wanted to do.
The last day I asked to take a photo of all the monks together, and was caught unaware with a surprise leaving ceremony. They all produced white scarves, lined up and presented them to me, one by one. So I'm now carrying more scarves than I now what to do with. One from each monk. That's 50+ scarves. And some of them gave me gifts, it was all very gratifying.
I left at 6.00 when it was still dark. Some of them hurried goodbyes before rushing off to prayers. And that's how I left them. Pinned up a goodbye note and took off.
Next I had to say goodbye to some of my friends, who I'm sure I won't see for a long time. That was really sad.
So that's the biggest lot of real goodbyes I've ever had to make.
So it's back on the road. I love it. We're in Shimla right now. Michael Palin's hang out. Not doing particularly much, just being here. It's eerily quiet and clean. Hmm.
Leaving Puruwala feels better now. It feels like I left with an amazing impression and perhaps left some sort of impression myself, so the experience is complete now, and no one can change it anymore.
The last day I asked to take a photo of all the monks together, and was caught unaware with a surprise leaving ceremony. They all produced white scarves, lined up and presented them to me, one by one. So I'm now carrying more scarves than I now what to do with. One from each monk. That's 50+ scarves. And some of them gave me gifts, it was all very gratifying.
I left at 6.00 when it was still dark. Some of them hurried goodbyes before rushing off to prayers. And that's how I left them. Pinned up a goodbye note and took off.
Next I had to say goodbye to some of my friends, who I'm sure I won't see for a long time. That was really sad.
So that's the biggest lot of real goodbyes I've ever had to make.
So it's back on the road. I love it. We're in Shimla right now. Michael Palin's hang out. Not doing particularly much, just being here. It's eerily quiet and clean. Hmm.
Leaving Puruwala feels better now. It feels like I left with an amazing impression and perhaps left some sort of impression myself, so the experience is complete now, and no one can change it anymore.
Wednesday 17 December 2008
"Romeo and Juliet" performed by the Sakia Institute Acting Company
After a warm reception to the works of Shakespeare, the fullish performance of the balcony scene took place on the monastery roof. The cast, Tashi Danzin and Kunga, presented a moving enterpretation of the classic scene with a keen receptiveness to the torn love of the two protagonists, portraying longing, passion and forbidden adoration with their masterful command of dramatic verse.
The production was beautiful and the full audience of 5 recieved it with huge applause.
Due to technical reasons the film cannot be added to this post but this poster of the most moving parts can be released
critical praise for "Romeo and Juliet"
"Very interesting lesson sir, thank you." -a monk
"what is past tense of yonder?" - Nya (monk)
Friday 12 December 2008
Royal Chitwan National Park: Safety Briefing.
Dorjee:
While in the park there are four types of animals we might see that are aggressive to humans. Rhinos, Mad Elephants, Sloth Bears, and Tigers.
Rhinos
Find a good tree and climb up 7 feet. then wait for the Rhino to leave.
Sloth Bears
All group together and make big noise. Then if the sloth bear still come forward then we fight it. I have here a stick for to fight the sloth bear.
Mad Elephants
Look for the nearest forest and run to it, and the the elephant cannot chase us when we are in there.
Tigers
Run.
While in the park there are four types of animals we might see that are aggressive to humans. Rhinos, Mad Elephants, Sloth Bears, and Tigers.
Rhinos
Find a good tree and climb up 7 feet. then wait for the Rhino to leave.
Sloth Bears
All group together and make big noise. Then if the sloth bear still come forward then we fight it. I have here a stick for to fight the sloth bear.
Mad Elephants
Look for the nearest forest and run to it, and the the elephant cannot chase us when we are in there.
Tigers
Run.
Elephant madness
Next we went to Chitwan, for the cheapest safari holiday ever. It was pretty awesome aswell, floating about in those big long canoes. We also got a bucking bronco from an elephant and a hosing down. There were elephants everywhere. On the main street and all over the place.
We realised here that hiring bikes was by far the cheapest and best way to get around. The breeding sanctuary up the road was full of mental claustrophobic elephant mothers, chained, and cute little babies, unchained. It had fences of a sort, but not really. If an elephant wanted out it would probably just have to sit on it. and the evidence showed that that had already happened. A little baby elephant strolled out and said hello. We shook its trunk and sat and had a chat with it for a while. Then it got hungry and started charging us down if we got too near its meal. I never thought I'd have to hand off an elephant. But yes, I have done that now.
One night we went to the tour guides family's local hut. We got on well with the tour guide, his name was Dorjee. We enjoyed the food and had a long chat. Eventually a guitar was produced and the meal turned into a rice wine fuelled sing song, alternating between traditional Nepali and traditional English songs. They entertained us with such songs as the harvest blessing song and several traditional dances, we in turn entertained them with such British traditional songs as Tribute by Tenacious D, God Save the Queen by the Sex Pistols and If You Wanna Be My Lover by the Spice Girls. It was a most multicultural experience.
We realised here that hiring bikes was by far the cheapest and best way to get around. The breeding sanctuary up the road was full of mental claustrophobic elephant mothers, chained, and cute little babies, unchained. It had fences of a sort, but not really. If an elephant wanted out it would probably just have to sit on it. and the evidence showed that that had already happened. A little baby elephant strolled out and said hello. We shook its trunk and sat and had a chat with it for a while. Then it got hungry and started charging us down if we got too near its meal. I never thought I'd have to hand off an elephant. But yes, I have done that now.
One night we went to the tour guides family's local hut. We got on well with the tour guide, his name was Dorjee. We enjoyed the food and had a long chat. Eventually a guitar was produced and the meal turned into a rice wine fuelled sing song, alternating between traditional Nepali and traditional English songs. They entertained us with such songs as the harvest blessing song and several traditional dances, we in turn entertained them with such British traditional songs as Tribute by Tenacious D, God Save the Queen by the Sex Pistols and If You Wanna Be My Lover by the Spice Girls. It was a most multicultural experience.
The Two Stupas
I kept these in a separate entry because they were a highlight, not even just of the trip, of the world.
Two big towers at different ends of the city, Swayambunath and Bodnath, each with the Buddha's eyes painted on all four sides of them. Most things are impressive because of their height or their size, or their architectural cleverness, sometimes their history, but these had all those things and that still wasn't what made them so amazing. I don't even know what it was.
Bodnath is a massive pagoda shape with hundreds of Buddhists making their daily prayer rounds. There was a choice between entering through the front gate for 50rs or through one of about 50 side entrances free of charge. (???) We went right round and spun every single prayer wheel which took a while. Then the power went out and we had dinner on the top of a roof while the Buddha glared at us eating our chow mein.
Swayambunath was my favourite. Supposedly the lice from a holy mans head have evolved into monkeys up there, so thats why it has the title of "monkey temple" This one stood on the top of a hill and the eyes towered over the top of everyone, like they could see everything you couldn't. There wasn't much we coulnd't see though because we were so high up that we had a view of every single colourful house in Kathmandu. We stayed up there till darkness and watched the monkeys.
The Buddha's eyes appear all over Nepal, and you have to see them for real before you properly get it
Two big towers at different ends of the city, Swayambunath and Bodnath, each with the Buddha's eyes painted on all four sides of them. Most things are impressive because of their height or their size, or their architectural cleverness, sometimes their history, but these had all those things and that still wasn't what made them so amazing. I don't even know what it was.
Bodnath is a massive pagoda shape with hundreds of Buddhists making their daily prayer rounds. There was a choice between entering through the front gate for 50rs or through one of about 50 side entrances free of charge. (???) We went right round and spun every single prayer wheel which took a while. Then the power went out and we had dinner on the top of a roof while the Buddha glared at us eating our chow mein.
Swayambunath was my favourite. Supposedly the lice from a holy mans head have evolved into monkeys up there, so thats why it has the title of "monkey temple" This one stood on the top of a hill and the eyes towered over the top of everyone, like they could see everything you couldn't. There wasn't much we coulnd't see though because we were so high up that we had a view of every single colourful house in Kathmandu. We stayed up there till darkness and watched the monkeys.
The Buddha's eyes appear all over Nepal, and you have to see them for real before you properly get it
Saturday 6 December 2008
Kathmandu
As things worked out we ended up staying in a place built entirely for foreigners called Thamel. It was a good place with lots of fun shops and places to eat but I ended up getting scammed the worst I've ever been scammed. It was close to robbery. So I was fed up of that place that night.
But all you can do is go to sleep and put it behind you. Next morning, it turns out Kathmandu is the best city in the world. Escape Thamel, and its like nowhere else. We saw loads and loads of religious monuments on the way in, and they all accumulate in a place called Durbar square. It's an area of the city packed with Hindu/ Bhuddist temples. My favourite thing was that while we were wondering around taking in the temples, the Nepalis were going about normal life in the midst of it. The were kids washing in the holy fountains and school students flirting while sitting on monuments of Gods.
There was also supposedly a little Godgirl who stuck her head out of the window whenever her mood was such, which we could have seen if we were lucky. We weren't lucky, but we hung around for a bit in her courtyard just in case. She stops being a God at her first sign of humanness at a certain age so I think she was about three. Her selection involved being put in a dark room and frightened by a society of men making worrying noises. Cleverly, she kept her composure, and so, is now a God.
But all you can do is go to sleep and put it behind you. Next morning, it turns out Kathmandu is the best city in the world. Escape Thamel, and its like nowhere else. We saw loads and loads of religious monuments on the way in, and they all accumulate in a place called Durbar square. It's an area of the city packed with Hindu/ Bhuddist temples. My favourite thing was that while we were wondering around taking in the temples, the Nepalis were going about normal life in the midst of it. The were kids washing in the holy fountains and school students flirting while sitting on monuments of Gods.
There was also supposedly a little Godgirl who stuck her head out of the window whenever her mood was such, which we could have seen if we were lucky. We weren't lucky, but we hung around for a bit in her courtyard just in case. She stops being a God at her first sign of humanness at a certain age so I think she was about three. Her selection involved being put in a dark room and frightened by a society of men making worrying noises. Cleverly, she kept her composure, and so, is now a God.
Pokhara
Our first stop was a tourist haven with a big lake. We ate and slept like kings thanks to all the tourist stuff. Everything was so well run. The first day we hired a little boat and rowed out into the middle of the lake. From there we could see the mountain that looks like a fish, except it wasn't behaving very much like a fish because we were at the wrong angle. We ended up at a little temple on an island where they praised pigeons, being a sign of peace. They would pick up the pigeons and hold them to their heads while doing a ritual. The pigeons had no idea what was going on.
We also went paragliding. That was something else. Apparently the paragliding in Nepal is the best in the world because the rice fields hold so much moisture that the updrafts are really powerful and you can get really high. Anyway, flying is quite an experience. It wouldn't have worked to see the view of the lake any other way than by flying over it. We got really quite high at one point, higher than the hill tops, and we were flying around with about 10 other paragliders, one of which was the world altitude record holder. He was doing something called parahawking which was basically arial falconry. There was also another bird, which I don't think was attached to a paraglider, about 1.3 m across, flying about with us. So we were sharing the sky with this huge raptor.
The falcon's name was Kevin, and from time to time they enjoyed attaching a camera to its head. If your intersted, look up Kev cam on youtube.
In the evening we went to a bar which had a pet rat which crawled about the tables. It turns out Nepalis really like their dancing.
On the bus away from Pokhara I started to get a little uneasy, because its clear there are about three different places, and the roads that conntect them which are the only places tourists can go. It was a bit like being stuck in a tube. You could only see the country from inside the tube and it felt like there was a country going on outside of it but we were just floating along detached from it. It felt a bit artificial and unsettling and I really wanted to get on a cheap local bus and head somewhere random as soon as we got to Kathmandu.
We also went paragliding. That was something else. Apparently the paragliding in Nepal is the best in the world because the rice fields hold so much moisture that the updrafts are really powerful and you can get really high. Anyway, flying is quite an experience. It wouldn't have worked to see the view of the lake any other way than by flying over it. We got really quite high at one point, higher than the hill tops, and we were flying around with about 10 other paragliders, one of which was the world altitude record holder. He was doing something called parahawking which was basically arial falconry. There was also another bird, which I don't think was attached to a paraglider, about 1.3 m across, flying about with us. So we were sharing the sky with this huge raptor.
The falcon's name was Kevin, and from time to time they enjoyed attaching a camera to its head. If your intersted, look up Kev cam on youtube.
In the evening we went to a bar which had a pet rat which crawled about the tables. It turns out Nepalis really like their dancing.
On the bus away from Pokhara I started to get a little uneasy, because its clear there are about three different places, and the roads that conntect them which are the only places tourists can go. It was a bit like being stuck in a tube. You could only see the country from inside the tube and it felt like there was a country going on outside of it but we were just floating along detached from it. It felt a bit artificial and unsettling and I really wanted to get on a cheap local bus and head somewhere random as soon as we got to Kathmandu.
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