I can't believe I haven't seen a Bollywood film up until now. It's probably about twice as entertaining as the British cinema experience because you get to shout if your entertained enough. Massive cheers and whistling happened all through the film, including big ones for the motorbike chase scene and the choice of loyalty towards husband (very popular).
The biggest cheer must have been for the first appearance of Shah Rukh Kahn. He's pretty much the biggest Bollywood act around, is about 40 and has been in most big Bollywood films since the 1990's. He's massive. He was recently included in Newsweek's 50 most powerful people in the world.
Tuesday 23 December 2008
Shimla
I absolutely loved Shimla. It was CLEAN. But apart from that it was really charming. And people came up and talked to you, except they just wanted to talk. It was a really nice break from all the normal hecticness.
A funny thing was that there was Tudor housing, in India, and Scottish architecture, in India. Quite odd. The vice regal lodge, where Ghandi signed the Treaty of Independence, was a bit like having a tour of Glamis Castle. This part of the world is kind of Scottish. Shimla was right next to a place called "The Glen," I'm sitting in a place called McLeod Ganj and just down the road is Dalhousie.
We went to a roller disco in Shimla. Not since the 70's could roller skates look cool. The regulars were taking chairs from the cafe and jumping over them. They also had no women to dance with so they were figure skating with each other which was odd.
Before that we had been up a hill to a monkey temple, with violent monkeys which I had to fend off with a lonely planet guide. But listen to this. They had developed the habit of stealing people's glasses and then bribing the cafe owners to give them back in exchange for food.
A funny thing was that there was Tudor housing, in India, and Scottish architecture, in India. Quite odd. The vice regal lodge, where Ghandi signed the Treaty of Independence, was a bit like having a tour of Glamis Castle. This part of the world is kind of Scottish. Shimla was right next to a place called "The Glen," I'm sitting in a place called McLeod Ganj and just down the road is Dalhousie.
We went to a roller disco in Shimla. Not since the 70's could roller skates look cool. The regulars were taking chairs from the cafe and jumping over them. They also had no women to dance with so they were figure skating with each other which was odd.
Before that we had been up a hill to a monkey temple, with violent monkeys which I had to fend off with a lonely planet guide. But listen to this. They had developed the habit of stealing people's glasses and then bribing the cafe owners to give them back in exchange for food.
Sunday 21 December 2008
Goodbye Time
I can't pretend it wasn't sad to say goodbye to everyone. First goodbye was a couple of monks who had to leave the day before I was going. That's when I realised, I didn't really want to leave. It wasn't really something I wanted to do.
The last day I asked to take a photo of all the monks together, and was caught unaware with a surprise leaving ceremony. They all produced white scarves, lined up and presented them to me, one by one. So I'm now carrying more scarves than I now what to do with. One from each monk. That's 50+ scarves. And some of them gave me gifts, it was all very gratifying.
I left at 6.00 when it was still dark. Some of them hurried goodbyes before rushing off to prayers. And that's how I left them. Pinned up a goodbye note and took off.
Next I had to say goodbye to some of my friends, who I'm sure I won't see for a long time. That was really sad.
So that's the biggest lot of real goodbyes I've ever had to make.
So it's back on the road. I love it. We're in Shimla right now. Michael Palin's hang out. Not doing particularly much, just being here. It's eerily quiet and clean. Hmm.
Leaving Puruwala feels better now. It feels like I left with an amazing impression and perhaps left some sort of impression myself, so the experience is complete now, and no one can change it anymore.
The last day I asked to take a photo of all the monks together, and was caught unaware with a surprise leaving ceremony. They all produced white scarves, lined up and presented them to me, one by one. So I'm now carrying more scarves than I now what to do with. One from each monk. That's 50+ scarves. And some of them gave me gifts, it was all very gratifying.
I left at 6.00 when it was still dark. Some of them hurried goodbyes before rushing off to prayers. And that's how I left them. Pinned up a goodbye note and took off.
Next I had to say goodbye to some of my friends, who I'm sure I won't see for a long time. That was really sad.
So that's the biggest lot of real goodbyes I've ever had to make.
So it's back on the road. I love it. We're in Shimla right now. Michael Palin's hang out. Not doing particularly much, just being here. It's eerily quiet and clean. Hmm.
Leaving Puruwala feels better now. It feels like I left with an amazing impression and perhaps left some sort of impression myself, so the experience is complete now, and no one can change it anymore.
Wednesday 17 December 2008
"Romeo and Juliet" performed by the Sakia Institute Acting Company
After a warm reception to the works of Shakespeare, the fullish performance of the balcony scene took place on the monastery roof. The cast, Tashi Danzin and Kunga, presented a moving enterpretation of the classic scene with a keen receptiveness to the torn love of the two protagonists, portraying longing, passion and forbidden adoration with their masterful command of dramatic verse.
The production was beautiful and the full audience of 5 recieved it with huge applause.
Due to technical reasons the film cannot be added to this post but this poster of the most moving parts can be released
critical praise for "Romeo and Juliet"
"Very interesting lesson sir, thank you." -a monk
"what is past tense of yonder?" - Nya (monk)
Friday 12 December 2008
Royal Chitwan National Park: Safety Briefing.
Dorjee:
While in the park there are four types of animals we might see that are aggressive to humans. Rhinos, Mad Elephants, Sloth Bears, and Tigers.
Rhinos
Find a good tree and climb up 7 feet. then wait for the Rhino to leave.
Sloth Bears
All group together and make big noise. Then if the sloth bear still come forward then we fight it. I have here a stick for to fight the sloth bear.
Mad Elephants
Look for the nearest forest and run to it, and the the elephant cannot chase us when we are in there.
Tigers
Run.
While in the park there are four types of animals we might see that are aggressive to humans. Rhinos, Mad Elephants, Sloth Bears, and Tigers.
Rhinos
Find a good tree and climb up 7 feet. then wait for the Rhino to leave.
Sloth Bears
All group together and make big noise. Then if the sloth bear still come forward then we fight it. I have here a stick for to fight the sloth bear.
Mad Elephants
Look for the nearest forest and run to it, and the the elephant cannot chase us when we are in there.
Tigers
Run.
Elephant madness
Next we went to Chitwan, for the cheapest safari holiday ever. It was pretty awesome aswell, floating about in those big long canoes. We also got a bucking bronco from an elephant and a hosing down. There were elephants everywhere. On the main street and all over the place.
We realised here that hiring bikes was by far the cheapest and best way to get around. The breeding sanctuary up the road was full of mental claustrophobic elephant mothers, chained, and cute little babies, unchained. It had fences of a sort, but not really. If an elephant wanted out it would probably just have to sit on it. and the evidence showed that that had already happened. A little baby elephant strolled out and said hello. We shook its trunk and sat and had a chat with it for a while. Then it got hungry and started charging us down if we got too near its meal. I never thought I'd have to hand off an elephant. But yes, I have done that now.
One night we went to the tour guides family's local hut. We got on well with the tour guide, his name was Dorjee. We enjoyed the food and had a long chat. Eventually a guitar was produced and the meal turned into a rice wine fuelled sing song, alternating between traditional Nepali and traditional English songs. They entertained us with such songs as the harvest blessing song and several traditional dances, we in turn entertained them with such British traditional songs as Tribute by Tenacious D, God Save the Queen by the Sex Pistols and If You Wanna Be My Lover by the Spice Girls. It was a most multicultural experience.
We realised here that hiring bikes was by far the cheapest and best way to get around. The breeding sanctuary up the road was full of mental claustrophobic elephant mothers, chained, and cute little babies, unchained. It had fences of a sort, but not really. If an elephant wanted out it would probably just have to sit on it. and the evidence showed that that had already happened. A little baby elephant strolled out and said hello. We shook its trunk and sat and had a chat with it for a while. Then it got hungry and started charging us down if we got too near its meal. I never thought I'd have to hand off an elephant. But yes, I have done that now.
One night we went to the tour guides family's local hut. We got on well with the tour guide, his name was Dorjee. We enjoyed the food and had a long chat. Eventually a guitar was produced and the meal turned into a rice wine fuelled sing song, alternating between traditional Nepali and traditional English songs. They entertained us with such songs as the harvest blessing song and several traditional dances, we in turn entertained them with such British traditional songs as Tribute by Tenacious D, God Save the Queen by the Sex Pistols and If You Wanna Be My Lover by the Spice Girls. It was a most multicultural experience.
The Two Stupas
I kept these in a separate entry because they were a highlight, not even just of the trip, of the world.
Two big towers at different ends of the city, Swayambunath and Bodnath, each with the Buddha's eyes painted on all four sides of them. Most things are impressive because of their height or their size, or their architectural cleverness, sometimes their history, but these had all those things and that still wasn't what made them so amazing. I don't even know what it was.
Bodnath is a massive pagoda shape with hundreds of Buddhists making their daily prayer rounds. There was a choice between entering through the front gate for 50rs or through one of about 50 side entrances free of charge. (???) We went right round and spun every single prayer wheel which took a while. Then the power went out and we had dinner on the top of a roof while the Buddha glared at us eating our chow mein.
Swayambunath was my favourite. Supposedly the lice from a holy mans head have evolved into monkeys up there, so thats why it has the title of "monkey temple" This one stood on the top of a hill and the eyes towered over the top of everyone, like they could see everything you couldn't. There wasn't much we coulnd't see though because we were so high up that we had a view of every single colourful house in Kathmandu. We stayed up there till darkness and watched the monkeys.
The Buddha's eyes appear all over Nepal, and you have to see them for real before you properly get it
Two big towers at different ends of the city, Swayambunath and Bodnath, each with the Buddha's eyes painted on all four sides of them. Most things are impressive because of their height or their size, or their architectural cleverness, sometimes their history, but these had all those things and that still wasn't what made them so amazing. I don't even know what it was.
Bodnath is a massive pagoda shape with hundreds of Buddhists making their daily prayer rounds. There was a choice between entering through the front gate for 50rs or through one of about 50 side entrances free of charge. (???) We went right round and spun every single prayer wheel which took a while. Then the power went out and we had dinner on the top of a roof while the Buddha glared at us eating our chow mein.
Swayambunath was my favourite. Supposedly the lice from a holy mans head have evolved into monkeys up there, so thats why it has the title of "monkey temple" This one stood on the top of a hill and the eyes towered over the top of everyone, like they could see everything you couldn't. There wasn't much we coulnd't see though because we were so high up that we had a view of every single colourful house in Kathmandu. We stayed up there till darkness and watched the monkeys.
The Buddha's eyes appear all over Nepal, and you have to see them for real before you properly get it
Saturday 6 December 2008
Kathmandu
As things worked out we ended up staying in a place built entirely for foreigners called Thamel. It was a good place with lots of fun shops and places to eat but I ended up getting scammed the worst I've ever been scammed. It was close to robbery. So I was fed up of that place that night.
But all you can do is go to sleep and put it behind you. Next morning, it turns out Kathmandu is the best city in the world. Escape Thamel, and its like nowhere else. We saw loads and loads of religious monuments on the way in, and they all accumulate in a place called Durbar square. It's an area of the city packed with Hindu/ Bhuddist temples. My favourite thing was that while we were wondering around taking in the temples, the Nepalis were going about normal life in the midst of it. The were kids washing in the holy fountains and school students flirting while sitting on monuments of Gods.
There was also supposedly a little Godgirl who stuck her head out of the window whenever her mood was such, which we could have seen if we were lucky. We weren't lucky, but we hung around for a bit in her courtyard just in case. She stops being a God at her first sign of humanness at a certain age so I think she was about three. Her selection involved being put in a dark room and frightened by a society of men making worrying noises. Cleverly, she kept her composure, and so, is now a God.
But all you can do is go to sleep and put it behind you. Next morning, it turns out Kathmandu is the best city in the world. Escape Thamel, and its like nowhere else. We saw loads and loads of religious monuments on the way in, and they all accumulate in a place called Durbar square. It's an area of the city packed with Hindu/ Bhuddist temples. My favourite thing was that while we were wondering around taking in the temples, the Nepalis were going about normal life in the midst of it. The were kids washing in the holy fountains and school students flirting while sitting on monuments of Gods.
There was also supposedly a little Godgirl who stuck her head out of the window whenever her mood was such, which we could have seen if we were lucky. We weren't lucky, but we hung around for a bit in her courtyard just in case. She stops being a God at her first sign of humanness at a certain age so I think she was about three. Her selection involved being put in a dark room and frightened by a society of men making worrying noises. Cleverly, she kept her composure, and so, is now a God.
Pokhara
Our first stop was a tourist haven with a big lake. We ate and slept like kings thanks to all the tourist stuff. Everything was so well run. The first day we hired a little boat and rowed out into the middle of the lake. From there we could see the mountain that looks like a fish, except it wasn't behaving very much like a fish because we were at the wrong angle. We ended up at a little temple on an island where they praised pigeons, being a sign of peace. They would pick up the pigeons and hold them to their heads while doing a ritual. The pigeons had no idea what was going on.
We also went paragliding. That was something else. Apparently the paragliding in Nepal is the best in the world because the rice fields hold so much moisture that the updrafts are really powerful and you can get really high. Anyway, flying is quite an experience. It wouldn't have worked to see the view of the lake any other way than by flying over it. We got really quite high at one point, higher than the hill tops, and we were flying around with about 10 other paragliders, one of which was the world altitude record holder. He was doing something called parahawking which was basically arial falconry. There was also another bird, which I don't think was attached to a paraglider, about 1.3 m across, flying about with us. So we were sharing the sky with this huge raptor.
The falcon's name was Kevin, and from time to time they enjoyed attaching a camera to its head. If your intersted, look up Kev cam on youtube.
In the evening we went to a bar which had a pet rat which crawled about the tables. It turns out Nepalis really like their dancing.
On the bus away from Pokhara I started to get a little uneasy, because its clear there are about three different places, and the roads that conntect them which are the only places tourists can go. It was a bit like being stuck in a tube. You could only see the country from inside the tube and it felt like there was a country going on outside of it but we were just floating along detached from it. It felt a bit artificial and unsettling and I really wanted to get on a cheap local bus and head somewhere random as soon as we got to Kathmandu.
We also went paragliding. That was something else. Apparently the paragliding in Nepal is the best in the world because the rice fields hold so much moisture that the updrafts are really powerful and you can get really high. Anyway, flying is quite an experience. It wouldn't have worked to see the view of the lake any other way than by flying over it. We got really quite high at one point, higher than the hill tops, and we were flying around with about 10 other paragliders, one of which was the world altitude record holder. He was doing something called parahawking which was basically arial falconry. There was also another bird, which I don't think was attached to a paraglider, about 1.3 m across, flying about with us. So we were sharing the sky with this huge raptor.
The falcon's name was Kevin, and from time to time they enjoyed attaching a camera to its head. If your intersted, look up Kev cam on youtube.
In the evening we went to a bar which had a pet rat which crawled about the tables. It turns out Nepalis really like their dancing.
On the bus away from Pokhara I started to get a little uneasy, because its clear there are about three different places, and the roads that conntect them which are the only places tourists can go. It was a bit like being stuck in a tube. You could only see the country from inside the tube and it felt like there was a country going on outside of it but we were just floating along detached from it. It felt a bit artificial and unsettling and I really wanted to get on a cheap local bus and head somewhere random as soon as we got to Kathmandu.
Sunday 30 November 2008
The Journey Upwards
"Eight hours??" we said, a bit dissolusioned by the thought another long bus journey after having finished the roughest one of our lives.
The travel agent confirmed: eight hours, but we knew it would be about nine or ten. The whole system was based on commision so half the words spoken were lies.
Southern Nepal was not a nice place. It was a lot like small town India but even more corrupt. We were being pestered at the bus station by men with amazing agression. But then we left that behind and started climbing into the hills and things started to get a little bit incredible.
We climbed our way up a track carved into the side of the hill. Amazing sheer hills covered in jungle, with palm trees and aloe vera plants on the side of the road. Roads like that are the inspiration for all the car chases you see in films. It went right up the side of the valley with frighteningly big mountains up ahead and a turqouise stream crashing through the middle of it. We went on. Little huts were dotted about all the way up. Real mountain people, and their rice fields spilled down the mountain sides all over the place. Then we stopped for a break on the side of the road, and for the first time, as if they were floating in the air, we could see the snowy himalayas, just visible in the distance.
Well now I'm surrounded by them, and Nepal is an incredible country. I really really never thought I'd ever be in the Himalaya, but now I'm quite amazingly on the verge of the roof of the world.
The travel agent confirmed: eight hours, but we knew it would be about nine or ten. The whole system was based on commision so half the words spoken were lies.
Southern Nepal was not a nice place. It was a lot like small town India but even more corrupt. We were being pestered at the bus station by men with amazing agression. But then we left that behind and started climbing into the hills and things started to get a little bit incredible.
We climbed our way up a track carved into the side of the hill. Amazing sheer hills covered in jungle, with palm trees and aloe vera plants on the side of the road. Roads like that are the inspiration for all the car chases you see in films. It went right up the side of the valley with frighteningly big mountains up ahead and a turqouise stream crashing through the middle of it. We went on. Little huts were dotted about all the way up. Real mountain people, and their rice fields spilled down the mountain sides all over the place. Then we stopped for a break on the side of the road, and for the first time, as if they were floating in the air, we could see the snowy himalayas, just visible in the distance.
Well now I'm surrounded by them, and Nepal is an incredible country. I really really never thought I'd ever be in the Himalaya, but now I'm quite amazingly on the verge of the roof of the world.
Wednesday 26 November 2008
Nepal
I'm in Nepal now. I'm fairly sure I used to dream about going to Nepal when I was a child, and now I'm here. I'm staying next to the birth place of the Buddha, in Lumbini, where the monks are have in prayer session for a while, during which I'm pretty much just let lose in Nepal. It's looking good, probably worth the 48 hour journey through U.P. (the worst state in India. no clean drinking water for two days.) It's quite exciting though. I'm sleeping in the monks tent tonight. There are good vibes in the campsite with lots of colourful tents and general monk good feeling.
Thursday 20 November 2008
Opportunist Umberella Salesman
Indian Man in tracksuit: Hello sir
Tom: Hello
Indian Man: What country from?
Tom: Great Britain
Indian Man: Oh. Great Britain, very nice country.
Tom: Yes, I think so too.
Indian Man: Princess Diana, car accident.
Tom: Yes
Indian Man: Prince Charles
Tom: ...yes
Indian Man: Queen Elizabeth- queen
Tom: ...yes
(short pause)
Indian man: You need umberella purchase?
Tom: Sorry?
Indian Man: You need umberella purchase?
(produces filthy broken umberella from under his jacket)
Tom: Em... no thank you.
Indian Man: Ok
(Goes away)
(Comes back)
Indian Man: 1 rupee?
Tom: (looking in wallet) no, sorry, no change
Indian Man: 5 rupees? I need for cigarettes.
Tom: I don't have 5 rupees
Indian Man: 10 rupees.
Tom: Ok here you are, enjoy your cigarettes
(Indian man buys cigarettes using his hard earned money and returns 8 rupees change)
Tom: Hello
Indian Man: What country from?
Tom: Great Britain
Indian Man: Oh. Great Britain, very nice country.
Tom: Yes, I think so too.
Indian Man: Princess Diana, car accident.
Tom: Yes
Indian Man: Prince Charles
Tom: ...yes
Indian Man: Queen Elizabeth- queen
Tom: ...yes
(short pause)
Indian man: You need umberella purchase?
Tom: Sorry?
Indian Man: You need umberella purchase?
(produces filthy broken umberella from under his jacket)
Tom: Em... no thank you.
Indian Man: Ok
(Goes away)
(Comes back)
Indian Man: 1 rupee?
Tom: (looking in wallet) no, sorry, no change
Indian Man: 5 rupees? I need for cigarettes.
Tom: I don't have 5 rupees
Indian Man: 10 rupees.
Tom: Ok here you are, enjoy your cigarettes
(Indian man buys cigarettes using his hard earned money and returns 8 rupees change)
Tuesday 18 November 2008
Rooftop Sensei
We decided to go outside the other day onto the temple roof. So I was teaching this bunch of Bhuddist monks on the roof of a temple, which felt like something from a film.
I've been hearing more and more about the previous GAP teachers and I'm glad to know that I've entered into the legion of the "Good Teachers"
It sounds like there have been some real shockers. One guy with a short temper started with 15 students and ended up with two. Apparently the "Khenbo" (abbot) says I am a good teacher, which is nice given that I've never taught him. Like I said from the start, he has abilities of telekinesis, so that's how he seems to know.
The temple roof has a balcony on it, so in a few weeks the Advanced Class will be performing a scene from Romeo and Juliet. They don't know this yet but it will happen.
I've been hearing more and more about the previous GAP teachers and I'm glad to know that I've entered into the legion of the "Good Teachers"
It sounds like there have been some real shockers. One guy with a short temper started with 15 students and ended up with two. Apparently the "Khenbo" (abbot) says I am a good teacher, which is nice given that I've never taught him. Like I said from the start, he has abilities of telekinesis, so that's how he seems to know.
The temple roof has a balcony on it, so in a few weeks the Advanced Class will be performing a scene from Romeo and Juliet. They don't know this yet but it will happen.
Wednesday 12 November 2008
The monks arrived suddenly on Saturday, so I'm happy. I've decided that monks are the best students in the world. Not as shy as the Indians but without the childminding aspect of the school kids. So my lessons are pretty awesome after the practice I've had with the other places.
We set off yesterday, a bus full of monks and the English teacher to go and watch an opening ceremony of a new monastery. (The monk's, being nutters chanted Indian pop songs all the way there) The new centre was of the sect that specialises in ceremonies so this ceremony was fittingly amazing. It had the silly hats and the sea shell trumpets and everything. We had to sit through a lot of chanting but every so often we got to throw flowers at eac other which was fun.
The Tibetan community in this part of the world (which I am obviously part of) is so small that you meet everyone at these kinds of things, all the teachers from the school were there, and the teachers from the nunnery.
Schools out
The monks are safely home now and I've finished at the school. To be honest I'm quite happy. Primary school teaching is an impossible job. And it wasn't helped by the fact that I didn't speak their language. But I've had a really good time there and I'm glad I did it. I also never lost my temper once. I shouted quite loud a couple of times but The kids never really got the better of me. I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing. Maybe I should have cared a bit more. They all got really attached on the day I left which was quite sweet. It could have been because I just played games all day though.
A spin off is that they all come and visit me at the monastery. Imagine a swarm of human sized midges with voices like sirens. I'm surprised my phone and camera are still intact since all they seem to do is fight over them.
A little boy tried to steal my camera tripod the other day. After paying him to get out of my room the first time, he found his way back in picked it up and said
"Sir??"
"That's a tripod." I said hoping he'd lose interest.
"Sir I?"
"No you can't have it."
"What happen?"
"What do you mean what happen?"
"What happen?"
"I don't know get out of my room."
"What happen?"
I picked him up and lifted him out. Later on they both said goodbye. I searched his pockets and found my tripod up his sleeve.
"Sir, what happen?" He said.
"No. Not what happen." And sent him on his way after getting a refund of the rupee I had paid him to behave.
But I'm sure I'll give the school a visit from time to time.
A spin off is that they all come and visit me at the monastery. Imagine a swarm of human sized midges with voices like sirens. I'm surprised my phone and camera are still intact since all they seem to do is fight over them.
A little boy tried to steal my camera tripod the other day. After paying him to get out of my room the first time, he found his way back in picked it up and said
"Sir??"
"That's a tripod." I said hoping he'd lose interest.
"Sir I?"
"No you can't have it."
"What happen?"
"What do you mean what happen?"
"What happen?"
"I don't know get out of my room."
"What happen?"
I picked him up and lifted him out. Later on they both said goodbye. I searched his pockets and found my tripod up his sleeve.
"Sir, what happen?" He said.
"No. Not what happen." And sent him on his way after getting a refund of the rupee I had paid him to behave.
But I'm sure I'll give the school a visit from time to time.
Saturday 1 November 2008
Diwali
I spent in Diwali Indian style.
I was invited to "Raj's" house. The evening started off decorating the steps of the computer centre with rows of little candles. It looked nice once we were finished. Then we brought out the fireworks. The next hour or two were spent playing with fireworks. I won't go into it for the sake of my parents but I was quite proud that the biggest explosions were from mine. Anyhow, the evening resulted in Raj getting his hand blown up by cunningly holding onto a firework and lighting it. He had to go to hospital.
The walk back to his house was like a mine field. There were bombs exploding everywhere. Little boys were aiming fireworks a at people and into sheds with people inside.
Raj got back home, smothered his hand in potato and went to hospital, so I was left alone in the local egg shop by myself. I watched the family light the candles and let them feed me. (Literally feed me). Then there was surprisingly little else to do so I watched a Hindi serial about the God Krishna which was a masterpiece.
I was invited to "Raj's" house. The evening started off decorating the steps of the computer centre with rows of little candles. It looked nice once we were finished. Then we brought out the fireworks. The next hour or two were spent playing with fireworks. I won't go into it for the sake of my parents but I was quite proud that the biggest explosions were from mine. Anyhow, the evening resulted in Raj getting his hand blown up by cunningly holding onto a firework and lighting it. He had to go to hospital.
The walk back to his house was like a mine field. There were bombs exploding everywhere. Little boys were aiming fireworks a at people and into sheds with people inside.
Raj got back home, smothered his hand in potato and went to hospital, so I was left alone in the local egg shop by myself. I watched the family light the candles and let them feed me. (Literally feed me). Then there was surprisingly little else to do so I watched a Hindi serial about the God Krishna which was a masterpiece.
Living in the Village
Working every day outside the walls of the monastery has meant that I've met a whole load of new Indian people. Now just about the whole village is familiar with me. It has also meant that I am now giving English lessons in the local computer centre.
Indians go mad for English lessons. I think it's because they see it as a sort of ticket into a bright future. They associate it with education and development. It's a shame because it sums up the lack of hope that they have in their country. I speak perfect English and it doesn't make anything any easier, but they're still desperate to learn it.
The offshoot of this is that a load of Indian men now have my phone number. Every night I get a text saying
"GOOD NIGHT
TOM"
I don't know who it's from but I appreciate the thought. I also get walked home by a bunch of guys who like to practice their English, so I have t0 go the long way home, so I'm always late for dinner.
It seems I've been inducted into one of the social circles of the villagers.
The school hasn't calmed down either. In fact as I run out of steam day by day, the lessons get worse. (it's hard to make them work when you don't really mind if they do or not.)
Yesterday I made a big mobile with lots of drawings of birds that the class 1,2 and 3 kids had done. I also painted a picture of Minnie mouse in Tibetan dress on the wall. So my legacy will stay on in the school for years. Not just in the minds of the children. Minnie mouse might perhaps last longer than what I've been teaching them. The other day I ran out of ideas so I just did a whole lesson on soup.
Indians go mad for English lessons. I think it's because they see it as a sort of ticket into a bright future. They associate it with education and development. It's a shame because it sums up the lack of hope that they have in their country. I speak perfect English and it doesn't make anything any easier, but they're still desperate to learn it.
The offshoot of this is that a load of Indian men now have my phone number. Every night I get a text saying
"GOOD NIGHT
TOM"
I don't know who it's from but I appreciate the thought. I also get walked home by a bunch of guys who like to practice their English, so I have t0 go the long way home, so I'm always late for dinner.
It seems I've been inducted into one of the social circles of the villagers.
The school hasn't calmed down either. In fact as I run out of steam day by day, the lessons get worse. (it's hard to make them work when you don't really mind if they do or not.)
Yesterday I made a big mobile with lots of drawings of birds that the class 1,2 and 3 kids had done. I also painted a picture of Minnie mouse in Tibetan dress on the wall. So my legacy will stay on in the school for years. Not just in the minds of the children. Minnie mouse might perhaps last longer than what I've been teaching them. The other day I ran out of ideas so I just did a whole lesson on soup.
Monday 20 October 2008
Class Time
Excercise: Draw three people with different jobs and write 4 sentences about each.
(boy brings out jotter)
Tom: Ok whats this?
Boy: He's lifting a table (shows drawing of man lifting table)
Tom: Ok... that's not really a job is it?
(boy stays silent)
So a job, like teacher or doctor or postman.
(boy nods)
So what's this?
Boy: Doctor
Tom: Doctor, yes, ok good. And what's this.
Boy: He's doing toilet. (shows drawing of man urinating.)
Tom: right... is that a job?
(boy nods)
Tom: No I don't think it's really a job.
Boy: He is very bad man.
Tom: Ok well doing the toilet's not actually bad. But its not really a job. I mean like doctor or teacher.
Boy: yes (doesn't move)
Tom: ...ok, doing the toilet, very good
(boy brings out jotter)
Tom: Ok whats this?
Boy: He's lifting a table (shows drawing of man lifting table)
Tom: Ok... that's not really a job is it?
(boy stays silent)
So a job, like teacher or doctor or postman.
(boy nods)
So what's this?
Boy: Doctor
Tom: Doctor, yes, ok good. And what's this.
Boy: He's doing toilet. (shows drawing of man urinating.)
Tom: right... is that a job?
(boy nods)
Tom: No I don't think it's really a job.
Boy: He is very bad man.
Tom: Ok well doing the toilet's not actually bad. But its not really a job. I mean like doctor or teacher.
Boy: yes (doesn't move)
Tom: ...ok, doing the toilet, very good
Thursday 16 October 2008
Back to School Again
Well I'm back to work, this time in a different sort of school. Two buildings: a lunch hall and a class building. 5 class rooms, one for each class and a small hut where dinner is cooked.
They don't have a timetable as such. I just kind of have to guess where to fill in when there aren't any teachers which makes it quite hard to prepare lessons.
Today I was paraded around the village by the nursery kids, presented with a pink juice flask which was hung round my neck as a sort of medallion and handed gifts such as sticks, stones and a cocktail stirrer.
In the morning the older kids, as a token of their thanks for my efforts, offered me a worm, which I turned down, so instead they put it on a drum and saw how high it bounced when they hit the drum.
They don't have a timetable as such. I just kind of have to guess where to fill in when there aren't any teachers which makes it quite hard to prepare lessons.
Today I was paraded around the village by the nursery kids, presented with a pink juice flask which was hung round my neck as a sort of medallion and handed gifts such as sticks, stones and a cocktail stirrer.
In the morning the older kids, as a token of their thanks for my efforts, offered me a worm, which I turned down, so instead they put it on a drum and saw how high it bounced when they hit the drum.
Indian Private School
I spent the other night chilling out with the high society of India at "The Doon School Founders Day 2008" I swear I have never seen a more impressive school. They had huge steel gates painted black "donated by the Hyderabad Society," with guards sitting on duty. Inside were loads of tall, grand buildings surrounding cricket pitches and the like. It's a boarding school and the boarding houses are sort of Roman villa style. It's good for once to see signs that some Indians are given opportunities like that.
So there was this huge boarding school like a walled garden in the middle of the city. They had a big show with speeches and dancing. Despite the school's elite reputation the music was dismal, but I liked the dancing. As if they knew I would be visiting the guitar and piano ensemble played a Celtic jig to remind me of home, which was nice, but like I said it was dismal.
I then went and had a small chat with Chris Patten who was the guest speaker which was fun.
All the private school operatings sort of reminded me of home, back at Dundee High. It was all very familiar, except it was the first time I had really seen it from the outside. It's funny that it happened to be in India.
In the corner of the school grounds was a 50m x 50m settlement of slum houses, with tin roofs and plasic bags for doors. It was the view from the balcony of the boy's room I was in. I asked the one of the boarders why they were there. Apparently the workers who had built the new boarding house which I was sitting in had set up camp there while they were on the job, and never really left. So the grime of the city had somehow made its way inside the school walls, just so we didn't forget where we really stood.
So there was this huge boarding school like a walled garden in the middle of the city. They had a big show with speeches and dancing. Despite the school's elite reputation the music was dismal, but I liked the dancing. As if they knew I would be visiting the guitar and piano ensemble played a Celtic jig to remind me of home, which was nice, but like I said it was dismal.
I then went and had a small chat with Chris Patten who was the guest speaker which was fun.
All the private school operatings sort of reminded me of home, back at Dundee High. It was all very familiar, except it was the first time I had really seen it from the outside. It's funny that it happened to be in India.
In the corner of the school grounds was a 50m x 50m settlement of slum houses, with tin roofs and plasic bags for doors. It was the view from the balcony of the boy's room I was in. I asked the one of the boarders why they were there. Apparently the workers who had built the new boarding house which I was sitting in had set up camp there while they were on the job, and never really left. So the grime of the city had somehow made its way inside the school walls, just so we didn't forget where we really stood.
Saturday 11 October 2008
Monk friends
A thing that was rather nice the other day was that I walked into the large monastery where the monks are currently staying, and I as I walked through the grounds, every so often I heard my name, and turned round to see a delighted monk. And they were all very pleased to see me when I went and met most of them in their bedroom.
I have a group of friends up here in India, who happen to be monks, which makes me happy.
I have a group of friends up here in India, who happen to be monks, which makes me happy.
Another Change of Plans
Don't plans change easily.
It turns out I'm not travelling anymore. Down the road from the monastery there's a terribly understaffed little Tibetan school. Some of the kids know me already. They call me "Mr Tom" I decided it would be better to stay and teach here rather than being moved by GAP to a different monastery. On visiting to discuss the details I found out that they were desperate for more teachers and the headmaster was a very nice man. They were very excited and wanted me to start the next day. You can't break a Tibetan's heart- it would be like hurting a kitten, so I agreed that I would start on Monday.
It's an exciting prospect- I'm teaching 6 hours a day- sports, music and English. The children will call me Mr Tom and I will get to know the Tibetan village really well.
Then on November 15th the Monks are coming back and we're all going to Nepal which is also fun.
Monday 6 October 2008
Staying by the Ganges
I'm in the spiritual capital of the world- Rishikesh. It's very sacred to Hindus, quite sacred to Buddhists, and I'm sure it's sacred to some others as well. In the evening we watched some Hindus perform a ceremony over a stand of candles, before floating them out into the river. The place is full of shrines and people bathing in the river (I might just go paddling in it tomorrow).
Tonight we ate in this bamboo restaurant where we sat on the floor, while the Ganga flowed past us. We have vague plans to go rafting along the river tomorow. The trouble is, its a murky turquiose colour. Which is worrying.
Despite all the holy significance its still a really nice little town.
Tonight we ate in this bamboo restaurant where we sat on the floor, while the Ganga flowed past us. We have vague plans to go rafting along the river tomorow. The trouble is, its a murky turquiose colour. Which is worrying.
Despite all the holy significance its still a really nice little town.
Musoorie
Well, I'm on the road now, living away from Puruwala. For the moment I'm sort of based in Toral's house in Dehradun, but going away to surrounding places every day.
This weekend I went to Musoorie with two of the Dehradun girls. Musoorie is a town way up high on a cloud, like I thought heaven would be when I was a child. It had horse rides and a ferris wheel, like I thought heaven would be when I was a child.
This was the first time I'd ever ridden a horse, which I found rather funny, since i was riding it round an Indian town. There was an Indian man following each horse but we could have easily stolen them and ridden them down the hill to save us the pain of taking a bus.
The ferris wheel was man powered. There was a man who stood in the middle and powered the ferris wheel like a hampster.
There is a cable car ride to the top point of the town- "Gun Hill" Unfortuanately it was far too misty to see much of a view, so instead, I went into a photo booth, dressed up as a Moghul prince and knighted an Indian man.
Musoorie is what they call a "hill station" in that it is just a town perched on the very top of a hill. Although the views were not to be seen today, it was really nice to feel cool again with the altitude. There was just a touch of Britain about it, with the ferris wheel and the horse rides, but only a touch and no more. There were also a whole load of Indians on holiday. When Indians are on holiday their favourite thing to do is take photos of Westerners, so me and the girls must have wasted hours posing for photos for Indian holiday makers, sometimes with the men getting a little too close, and sometimes holding their babies.
Monday 29 September 2008
The Post Office Catterpillar Farm
Yesterday one of the monks and I walked through the network of paths through the fields to reach the post office. When we got there we found there was nobody in. (It was Sunday of course.) The post office is strange enough because it sits in the middle of a field, but if you go inside, you see two shelves and part of the ground laden with leaves. The first thing you're aware of is a very faint munching sound, before you realise that on top of the leaves are thousands of little catterpillars, all scoffing away. They're used as a local enterprise to make silk, and a couple had already spun their silk cocoons. But here were about 100,000 catterpillars, eating, in the village post office.
Fear of Insects
My fear of insects has gone from virtually none to a constant underlying sense of paranoia. The monastery is insectopia. One day I watched my bathroom become infested with ants before my eyes. In the space of about a second they all pored out of a hole in the wall, each one holding a tiny little egg. But it's not really the ants that bother me.
One night while checking the practicalities of having guests in my room I found a little scorpion under my matress. Which was nice. I had been sleeping on top of a scorpion. It's gone now. Whether it's still in my room or not I don't know. I have pressed my matress quite firmly up against the wall though so it doesn't snuggle up next to me.
Before I came to India I knew that the most painful sting in the world belonged to some wasp which lives in the jungle. On a trek up a forest path I came across a small managerie of wasps. I didn't know if the wasp with the painful sting even lived in India, but I decided it propbably did, and therefore one of these wasps must be that kind of wasp. There was one big one which was yellow all over with long legs sharing a leaf with a huge red one, and one other circling their plant. (I later found out it wasn't the yellow long legged one since I watched one in the village which had landed on the ground on its back and couldn't get up again, so I decided that the most powerful sting in the world couldn't have been entrusted to something so stupid.) I tried to take a picture of them, but was scared in case I annoyed them with the flash and was stung by the vicious jungle wasp.
Today I was walking down a dried up river bed where I thought it would be nice to read, since it was leafy and shady and cool. However as I was walking along I got ensnared by a strand of spider silk. I stepped back, an looked for the web. It was next to my head and on it was a huge red black and yellow spider, about the size of my hand, sitting watching me from above.
One night while checking the practicalities of having guests in my room I found a little scorpion under my matress. Which was nice. I had been sleeping on top of a scorpion. It's gone now. Whether it's still in my room or not I don't know. I have pressed my matress quite firmly up against the wall though so it doesn't snuggle up next to me.
Before I came to India I knew that the most painful sting in the world belonged to some wasp which lives in the jungle. On a trek up a forest path I came across a small managerie of wasps. I didn't know if the wasp with the painful sting even lived in India, but I decided it propbably did, and therefore one of these wasps must be that kind of wasp. There was one big one which was yellow all over with long legs sharing a leaf with a huge red one, and one other circling their plant. (I later found out it wasn't the yellow long legged one since I watched one in the village which had landed on the ground on its back and couldn't get up again, so I decided that the most powerful sting in the world couldn't have been entrusted to something so stupid.) I tried to take a picture of them, but was scared in case I annoyed them with the flash and was stung by the vicious jungle wasp.
Today I was walking down a dried up river bed where I thought it would be nice to read, since it was leafy and shady and cool. However as I was walking along I got ensnared by a strand of spider silk. I stepped back, an looked for the web. It was next to my head and on it was a huge red black and yellow spider, about the size of my hand, sitting watching me from above.
Puruwala
I went exploring the other day so I know a lot more about where I live now. It's three sides farmland anmd one side forest, and properly rural. It reminds me a little bit of the jungle book. The fields are small and owned by the people who live in the houses next to them. There are cows everywhere. Each house has an average of about 4 cows.
I went up the prayer flag hill, which was modest compared to the one at the nunnery, but still nice, and from there you had a view of the river and its entire floodplain. I also went exploring up the road a bit. The road up from the village is one of these roads which are carved into the side of the hill and wind all the way up it. When you reach the top it takes you into the middle of proper tropical jungle, with fluorescent green leaves and creeping vines, where I saw monkeys (in the wild). The road wound along the top of a ridge next to a valley, and on the opposite face of the valley, I watched an Indian lady who was cutting up and collecting undergrowth from on a sheer slope, and teetering on the edge of a 30m high drop of bare soil where the vegetation had given way under a land slide.
Today I was warned if I go up to the net village, up the hill I must not go into a house for tea, because they will drug me and steal all my stuff. So I won't be doing that.
Still I really don't want to leave this place so soon and I'm going to try and arrange to stay here over the nexty two months while the monks go away.
I went up the prayer flag hill, which was modest compared to the one at the nunnery, but still nice, and from there you had a view of the river and its entire floodplain. I also went exploring up the road a bit. The road up from the village is one of these roads which are carved into the side of the hill and wind all the way up it. When you reach the top it takes you into the middle of proper tropical jungle, with fluorescent green leaves and creeping vines, where I saw monkeys (in the wild). The road wound along the top of a ridge next to a valley, and on the opposite face of the valley, I watched an Indian lady who was cutting up and collecting undergrowth from on a sheer slope, and teetering on the edge of a 30m high drop of bare soil where the vegetation had given way under a land slide.
Today I was warned if I go up to the net village, up the hill I must not go into a house for tea, because they will drug me and steal all my stuff. So I won't be doing that.
Still I really don't want to leave this place so soon and I'm going to try and arrange to stay here over the nexty two months while the monks go away.
Thursday 25 September 2008
2 Month Holiday
Big news everyone.
The monks have just informed me that they are going away and leaving the monastery empty for to months while they go to Dehradun to recieve the teachings of his holiness Sakia Trinsen. So I will be redundant and untied to travel where I like. There is a chance that I might get put into another completely different monastery, but at the moment it's looking like I'm heading up North to see all my friends in Daramsala, Shimla, Manali...
It was a bit of a shock at first. It's not often something that big gets announced out of the blue. But I'm really excited now. Who knows where I'll be in a few weeks?
We'll have to wait and see. You could never really predict that far ahead over here.
The monks have just informed me that they are going away and leaving the monastery empty for to months while they go to Dehradun to recieve the teachings of his holiness Sakia Trinsen. So I will be redundant and untied to travel where I like. There is a chance that I might get put into another completely different monastery, but at the moment it's looking like I'm heading up North to see all my friends in Daramsala, Shimla, Manali...
It was a bit of a shock at first. It's not often something that big gets announced out of the blue. But I'm really excited now. Who knows where I'll be in a few weeks?
We'll have to wait and see. You could never really predict that far ahead over here.
Indian Bus Travel is Rubbish
The other night I was literally dumped by the bus driver about 5 miles away from Puruwala. He drove us to some obscure little town and then told everyone to get off. So I had to walk the rest of the journey through the pitch black Indian countryside.
That's the main reason why I hate Indian buses. But not the only.
That's the main reason why I hate Indian buses. But not the only.
You Can Never Fill a Rickshaw
I'm in Paonta Sahib right now, and I got here in a vickrim with 20 people in it!
That's 20 people in the space of a ford escort, with the horse power of a moped.
Four on each seat in the back, two children on their mother's lap, five people on the driver's lap, four people hanging on to the outside.
I also just had an hour long haircut and shave at a barbers.
That's 20 people in the space of a ford escort, with the horse power of a moped.
Four on each seat in the back, two children on their mother's lap, five people on the driver's lap, four people hanging on to the outside.
I also just had an hour long haircut and shave at a barbers.
Monday 22 September 2008
I was in Dehradun the other week. I think its a far better city than Delhi. The main place is Polton Bazaar, which is next to the big clock tower. Its a proper Indian bazaar which sells all sorts of stuff like whistles and filthy clothes. You can usually see a cloud of pink candyfloss floating above the crowd, before you find out its attached to a stick and there's a man trying to sell it. The beggars there are even more desperate, and quite violent at times, which is really sad to see. There's also a chicken street which sells nothing but eggs, so its got shop after shop of hens in cages laying. I don't spend much time there though because its so smelly.
I was Paltan bazaar, shopping, looking around, when we saw fireworks up ahead. We went over to find out it was a big Hindu festival parade. There were men with big tubas and people dressed up as Gods on big carnival floats, and people throwing pink chalk everywhere. Several little boys tried to "pink" us. We tried to run, but we couldn't hide, and eventually we resigned to our fate of being absolutely covered in pink. We were then grabbed, somehow, and (I don't even remember how I got there) were suddenly in the middle of a Hindu parade, dancing with Indian men. They were loving it. So I was shaking hands with all these pink Hindu revellers, while dancing Indian style. Then a cameraman started filming us. I got separated from the girls I was with, but went back to find one dancing with an oxe, the other with a skeleton.
Next day at Toral's house we did Yoga. It wasn't spiritual, it was horrible. And it gave me back pain.
So we had fun in Dehradun, but I was really glad to get back to my quiet monastery.
The Local Elephant
I have seen the local elephant twice now. Its got geenish blue Hindu patterns all over its face, so I think its a very spiritual elephant. It's ridden by a man who sits cross legged on a crate on its back whith a whicp to keep the flies off his face. I saw it once strolling about the farm next to me, and a second time when we had to squeeze past it on the bus back from the town.
My Nepalese Friend
T very kindlyhere's a Nepalese fellow who lives in the room next to me, who behaves rather endearingly. He enjoys showing off his educational prowess by counting really loud from 1-10 in English whenever he's around me. He also sings twinkle twinkle little star, which always makes me laugh, much to his satisfaction. He's my friend by now, and he very kindly enjoys serving me tea and dinner. So in a way I've got room service in my monastery.
We often have long games of flicky snooker in the evening, and he shares my enthusiasm for the lightning at night.
We often have long games of flicky snooker in the evening, and he shares my enthusiasm for the lightning at night.
rain storm
I don't think I'll ever see weather like I did the other night.
All day the mountains had been rumbling away. Every night in the monastery the trees sparkle like Christmas trees with all the fireflies, and massive bats fly about at screech at each other. Tonight though the sky was flashing like a strobe light. No rain and no thunder, just really bright flashes every 30 secnds or so. All this was happening, and we were hanging around outside, when a sort of far off rumble suddenly started. The monks, like dogs before an earthquake, went mental and all scattered and ran inside. About a minute later, and in the space of about a second this gale force wind got up. There was still no rain, just a huge wind. Me and the Nepalese groundkeeper were watching from the balcony, when a whole half of the tree across from us was ripped off and fell to the ground. The was the sound of windows smashing all over the place. The Nepalese fellow was now howling like a dog and making animal noises. And then in another surge the wind suddenly got up even more. About 5 minutes later the rain started, as suddenly as the wind had. And it came down in torrents.
Next morning was carnage.
All day the mountains had been rumbling away. Every night in the monastery the trees sparkle like Christmas trees with all the fireflies, and massive bats fly about at screech at each other. Tonight though the sky was flashing like a strobe light. No rain and no thunder, just really bright flashes every 30 secnds or so. All this was happening, and we were hanging around outside, when a sort of far off rumble suddenly started. The monks, like dogs before an earthquake, went mental and all scattered and ran inside. About a minute later, and in the space of about a second this gale force wind got up. There was still no rain, just a huge wind. Me and the Nepalese groundkeeper were watching from the balcony, when a whole half of the tree across from us was ripped off and fell to the ground. The was the sound of windows smashing all over the place. The Nepalese fellow was now howling like a dog and making animal noises. And then in another surge the wind suddenly got up even more. About 5 minutes later the rain started, as suddenly as the wind had. And it came down in torrents.
Next morning was carnage.
Friday 5 September 2008
Tibet away from Tibet
I'm not going to make a fuss about it, or join a rally, but Tibet should not be part of China, in a similar way to how South Ossetia should be Russian. The people here are Tibetan, study Tibetan philosophy all day, and live in a tibetan building near an all Tibetan villiage. Its really impressive how they've created a real home away from home.
The monks, being as selfless as they are, acknowledge that the Chinese have problems, in that if they give up Tibet, they must give up other parts of the country as well.
The other day, the local school put on a demonstration of Tibetan culture, lead by the kids, but they didn't do any singing or dancing like they meant to, because they were mourning the recent killings of 20 or 30 of their Tibetan cousins.
The monks, being as selfless as they are, acknowledge that the Chinese have problems, in that if they give up Tibet, they must give up other parts of the country as well.
The other day, the local school put on a demonstration of Tibetan culture, lead by the kids, but they didn't do any singing or dancing like they meant to, because they were mourning the recent killings of 20 or 30 of their Tibetan cousins.
I'm in India Now
I have just arrived in the proper country of India. I arrived here in an absolute death cab, even by Indian standards, which tore through 2 hours of winding roads uphill through thick jungle, from the nearest town- Dehra Dun. And then in the middle of nowhere we drew up to this Himalayan palace, complete with a fully decorated Bhuddist temple.
The pace of life here is almost at a halt. The monks are really great boys, all of them. Smile at them and they'l smile back in the nicest, most genuine way. There is tea 6 times a day, including butter tea (literally just butter and tea). Right now there are 4 days of "holy days" during which they claim to be "partying". They are playing badminton and basketball most of the day, and are having extra helpings of food and tea. Life really is that simple up here. It makes for very easy living.
The abbot (head monk) is not like I expected- an elderly, wise man with a beard, but a young, quite chunky, strong man. He has magical powers of teleportation and the ability to milk a moving yak. He does not speak English however, so Mr Tseng Tashi shows me around, and is very accomodating.
Round about the monastery are lots of simple (not primitive, primitive implies aspirations of progress) houses and a small shop which sells crisps and juice, and has about 5 men who are there playing a board game all day, every day.
I am seated in a small cyber-hut with a sort of Carribean feel. The internet is awful but the man is giving me free fruit.
The pace of life here is almost at a halt. The monks are really great boys, all of them. Smile at them and they'l smile back in the nicest, most genuine way. There is tea 6 times a day, including butter tea (literally just butter and tea). Right now there are 4 days of "holy days" during which they claim to be "partying". They are playing badminton and basketball most of the day, and are having extra helpings of food and tea. Life really is that simple up here. It makes for very easy living.
The abbot (head monk) is not like I expected- an elderly, wise man with a beard, but a young, quite chunky, strong man. He has magical powers of teleportation and the ability to milk a moving yak. He does not speak English however, so Mr Tseng Tashi shows me around, and is very accomodating.
Round about the monastery are lots of simple (not primitive, primitive implies aspirations of progress) houses and a small shop which sells crisps and juice, and has about 5 men who are there playing a board game all day, every day.
I am seated in a small cyber-hut with a sort of Carribean feel. The internet is awful but the man is giving me free fruit.
Leaving Delhi Behind
On the train there was a bit of time to stop and get your head together, a luxury you don't get in Delhi. I think Delhi is a product of having too many people with not enough to do. People mill about with no real sense of purpose, like you'd get in London.
You see a lot of little things which make you laugh, like a whole family of 5 on a motorbike, in descending height order. Apparently it is compulsory to wear a helmet (except Sikhs, who never cut their hair, and therefore have a natural protective cusion round their heads.) But despite this I've seen about 1 helmet per thousand motorbikes.
I was scammed in a big way by a cobra man. He put a snake on my neck and did the snake charming thing with a cobra in a basket. I paid Rs300 for that, (thats about 5 pounds) which is too much even in Britain. Apparently it was only worth Rs 10, as I was told by some nice IT students afterwards. Things like that are a big learning curve though.
Even the comparitively clinical YMCA was unpredictable at times. The last day we stayed there, they held the VIIth Delhi state "Mr Y" bodybuilding competition. There was a huge crowd, and they were absolutely loving it, but the biggest cheer was for us, when some of the girls were seen watching from the first floor window... they went wild.
They love white girls here. We were doing the tourist trail the other day. While we were in Red Fort, which was amazing and the biggest building you could think of, we were held up half an hour by men wanting their photos taken with girls.
Delhi is a very hectic place.
You see a lot of little things which make you laugh, like a whole family of 5 on a motorbike, in descending height order. Apparently it is compulsory to wear a helmet (except Sikhs, who never cut their hair, and therefore have a natural protective cusion round their heads.) But despite this I've seen about 1 helmet per thousand motorbikes.
I was scammed in a big way by a cobra man. He put a snake on my neck and did the snake charming thing with a cobra in a basket. I paid Rs300 for that, (thats about 5 pounds) which is too much even in Britain. Apparently it was only worth Rs 10, as I was told by some nice IT students afterwards. Things like that are a big learning curve though.
Even the comparitively clinical YMCA was unpredictable at times. The last day we stayed there, they held the VIIth Delhi state "Mr Y" bodybuilding competition. There was a huge crowd, and they were absolutely loving it, but the biggest cheer was for us, when some of the girls were seen watching from the first floor window... they went wild.
They love white girls here. We were doing the tourist trail the other day. While we were in Red Fort, which was amazing and the biggest building you could think of, we were held up half an hour by men wanting their photos taken with girls.
Delhi is a very hectic place.
Poor people get lost in Delhi
Me and a couple of the other guys all felt the same thing about the poverty on the streets in Delhi- not so much pity as frustration. We found it just annoyed us more than anything. The reason, I think was, that it was completely out of our hands. The thing about Delhi is its like a swarm. What can you do about a couple of sick members of a huge swarm? The frustration we felt was the same as when something is completely out of control. I think the problem has spiralled out of anyones hands.
Saturday 30 August 2008
Delhi Driving
If I could sum up the driving in Delhi in three words they would be- close to death. There are actually rules apparently, but no signs of rules anywhere. You don't give way to anyone, you honk your horn and plough right out of junctions into the stream of traffic, there are no lanes, you make your own. You don't slow down for anyone. I think the general rule is that as long as you honk your horn you can do anything. Its quite funny when a bus changes lane because the rickshaws kind of all get funneled between it and the pavement. Thats the other thing- there are no good cars. They are all dodgy. We had a bus break down next to the YMCA today and behind it the whole axle was just lying on the street. How does that happen?
A rather responsible rickshaw driver today actually stopped to answer his mobile phone, except he crossed over two lanes of oncoming traffic to do it.
We had two rickshaws full of volunteers, several times they almost became one rickshaw full of volunteers, but we passed each other so close we could give each other high fives, almost hold a conversation.
As soon as I get the chance I'll try and upload the video.
A rather responsible rickshaw driver today actually stopped to answer his mobile phone, except he crossed over two lanes of oncoming traffic to do it.
We had two rickshaws full of volunteers, several times they almost became one rickshaw full of volunteers, but we passed each other so close we could give each other high fives, almost hold a conversation.
As soon as I get the chance I'll try and upload the video.
Friday 29 August 2008
It has begun
Right. Well, I'm here, is the main thing about today. A lot of sinking in happened on the plane- going to India, leaving home etc etc, but really in the grand scheme of things all that matters about today is that things have gotten underway and are no longer a fantasy.
Delhi is every bit as mad as people say it is. Most of the bazaars are underground. They're a bit like bomb shelters- really not the best design for a shopping mall. Anyway, you can't so much as look at something without the shop owners harrassing you, so you can't buy anything, all you can do is take in how odd a place it is.
Also twice now I have been led to a "government emporium" by a man who charms me into thinking he is showing me some sights, while "practising his English" It was funny both times though. They're really good at luring you there:
Man: Hello , where you from? I no try to sell you things, I practise my English.
Tom:Wer're from Britain.
Man: Ah, Britain. where going today?
Tom: anywhere, just see some sights
Man: i will show you. how about the sikh temple... the sikh temple's good
Tom: ok
Man: I take it you have a head scarf to cover your head
Tom: No
Man: oh never mind theres a "government emporium" we can go to on the way. Follow me...
then he takes us to this little shop which sells indian stuff...but not the sikh temple.
Its all really good fun though, we've had to retreat back to our hostel at intervals to have a rest from the heat and the intensity of the place.
every now and then you see completely disturbing poverty
everyone stares at you as well. a man even took me for his husband.
all the other guys are really nice and were having great fun. I really can't wait to get up there and start doing my "job"
Its a really huge place, India. It feels like theres far too little time to fit everything in.
Delhi is every bit as mad as people say it is. Most of the bazaars are underground. They're a bit like bomb shelters- really not the best design for a shopping mall. Anyway, you can't so much as look at something without the shop owners harrassing you, so you can't buy anything, all you can do is take in how odd a place it is.
Also twice now I have been led to a "government emporium" by a man who charms me into thinking he is showing me some sights, while "practising his English" It was funny both times though. They're really good at luring you there:
Man: Hello , where you from? I no try to sell you things, I practise my English.
Tom:Wer're from Britain.
Man: Ah, Britain. where going today?
Tom: anywhere, just see some sights
Man: i will show you. how about the sikh temple... the sikh temple's good
Tom: ok
Man: I take it you have a head scarf to cover your head
Tom: No
Man: oh never mind theres a "government emporium" we can go to on the way. Follow me...
then he takes us to this little shop which sells indian stuff...but not the sikh temple.
Its all really good fun though, we've had to retreat back to our hostel at intervals to have a rest from the heat and the intensity of the place.
every now and then you see completely disturbing poverty
everyone stares at you as well. a man even took me for his husband.
all the other guys are really nice and were having great fun. I really can't wait to get up there and start doing my "job"
Its a really huge place, India. It feels like theres far too little time to fit everything in.
Friday 1 August 2008
Hey
Hey, thanks for visiting the blog.
I won't be around next year, I'll be in India teaching English so I've set this up incase anyone's interested in how I'm getting on.
I'm leaving on the 28th August- first to a monastery, then to a school. Both places have good internet access so I should be updating this quite a lot. I've been told Bhuddists are fun loving guys, so maybe I'll have some humerous stories that come out of my time.
Tom x
I won't be around next year, I'll be in India teaching English so I've set this up incase anyone's interested in how I'm getting on.
I'm leaving on the 28th August- first to a monastery, then to a school. Both places have good internet access so I should be updating this quite a lot. I've been told Bhuddists are fun loving guys, so maybe I'll have some humerous stories that come out of my time.
Tom x
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